The Method of the day for Survivalists:
Many people have had their power tools fail at one time or another. In a survival situation those power tools won’t be good for much. Back in the day people actually had to use a little muscle to make that screwdriver work.
That made us think what would people do to rebuild their homes, or repair things without being able to use their beloved power tools? We were able to come up with a list 10 essential tools that don’t need electricity. You may be surprised with what you find on the list.
1. Cross-cut saw: Very few people today have tried to cut through a large tree with a handsaw, and with good reason. Branches, yes, but trunks, never. Now imagine a SHTF situation where you can’t use or don’t want to use a noisy, smelly chainsaw. Not hard to imagine actually, but as you look at the tree blocking the road, laying across your roof, or soon to be turned into your bug out cabin, you’ve got a lot of sawdust-making ahead of you. This country was built with cross-cut saws, and while not as efficient as their internal combustion descendants, a pair of muscles and a sharp cross-cut will make short order of any tree outside our national parks.
Cross-cut saws come in one and two person versions that differ by length and handles. If you live in a place where you know you will need to cut trees, the two-man version is best. For some strange twist of physics, twice the manpower is more than twice as fast. But if space is an issue, the one-man version is smaller and a makeshift second handle can be bolted onto the end of the blade if needed.
2. Hacksaw: Most of us are quick to grab our reciprocating saw like a Milwaukee Sawzall (the Kleenex of such things) for just about every non-precise cutting task whether pipes, plywood, or plastic. Even fire/rescue folks have their trusty lithium-powered Sawzall on board to cut future hospital patients out of their current predicament.
Useful hand hacksaws come in two classic sizes, 10 inch blades and 12 inch. The standard looking solid-frame hacksaw uses a 12 inch blade while the mini saw uses the 10 inch. For the price, I recommend at least one of each, and you can use 12 inch blades on the mini versions, but it’s easy to break the non-supported portion of the blade if you’re not careful. And even if you do snap it in half, just keep using whatever piece fits in the saw.
3. Standard Hand Saw: This is the traditional looking saw with a wood handle attached to a slightly triangular blade tapering as it goes from grip to tip. They come in various lengths and tooth sizes, and of course, price points. The useful length of a hand saw tops out at about 30 inches, but a 26 or 20 inch blade works very well for most tasks. I have a handful of 15 inch saws floating around and they work as good or better than most camp saws when you don’t need to carry the saw in your pack.
As the teeth get smaller, it is easier to cut because less material is removed with each stroke. So the there is a tradeoff between cutting speed and necessary muscle. If you are in a region with harder woods, go for a tooth count above 10. If your world is more of softer woods like the pine forests of the west, then fewer than 10 teeth per inch will serve most needs just fine. Either way, the high-carbon steel will rust and pit if left alone outside.
4. Large Hand Drill: Hand-powered drills seem to be something that has fallen off the radar of most folks due to their proliferation in antique stores. Oddly, the same “antique” hand drill can be found in larger hardware stores for less money. Hobby shops often have a few on hand as well, but either way, there are plenty of options still in production.
Larger hand drills come in two popular designs. One looks like a bigger version of the standard small hand drill which is little more than a vertical shaft with a geared-crank wheel attached to the center, a handle above it, and a chuck below it. The other design called a brace drill looks like a bowed shaft of metal with a chuck on one end, a spin-able knob on the other and a rotating grip in the middle. Either design will allow you to place a considerable portion of your body weight on the shaft while drilling, but the cost of the more complex geared version increases exponentially as it goes up in size.
Brace drills are much less expensive and often have a ratchet mechanism like a socket that allows drilling in confined spaces where a complete revolution of the offset handle is not possible. Most brace drills have chucks that take up to half-inch bit shafts, but reduced-shaft wood bits give your brace drill up to a two inch diameter drilling capacity assuming you have a bit that size, let alone a need for a hole that big and the time to drill it.
5. Small Hand Drill: Most household drilling jobs will settle for a hole one-quarter inch in diameter or less which just so happens to be the capacity of smaller hand drills. It is very easy to snap off small drill bits when using a larger drill so small hand drills are essential if your drilling needs require holes pin to pencil-sized. Small hand drills do not generate as much torque as the larger versions, so both small and larger hand drills are necessary since one size won’t drill all.
Most of us, myself included, have many powered options when it comes to drilling holes and driving screws. But charging a 28v advanced lithium power cell is not the same as charging a cell phone battery with a crank-powered emergency radio. Without a gas-powered generator or a roof covered in solar panels, power tools are not really tools at all. Source for this article SurvivalCache.com read the rest of this article here: http://survivalcache.com/10-non-power-tools-you-need_for_survival/
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📭 Emails I sent with methods & tips:
Howdy… Jason here and it’s very useful to have several extra pairs of sock in your bug out bag. They take up very little room
Howdy… it’s Jason and it’s a good idea to paint you small tools in some bright color – orange or even fluorescent. Then, when you
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