T/h HTWTUSA |
This instructible is based on my latest camo job on a Ruger M77 25-06 long-range hunting rifle.
If you’re looking for instructions on dis-and-reassembly, I’d prefer you consult either your owner’s manual, or a reputable source, as I know only my weapons, and limit my expertise to what I own.
Also, don’t forget to check out my site: www.htwtusa.com!
So….without further ado, if you please……CLICK-IT!!!!….I meant the “Next Step” button….
First, after familiarizing yourself with your weapon, its assembly requirements, and assuring that it has no ammunition onboard…….remove any accessories (scopes, lasers, tac-lights, etc.) and set them aside.
For this, a bolt action rifle, I removed the bolt assy, as it wil not get any paint on it, and also removed the barrel/breech assy from the stock….
After disassy, clean EVERYTHING with some brake parts cleaner……yes-everything…..it dries fast and strips ALL grime from the surfaces to be painted….
Step 2: Materials…
Next I arranged my materials…I choose brake parts cleaner because it absolutely strips all goo from any metal and dries pretty fast; Krylon ultra-flat camo paint because it’s basically the toughest sh*t in a can; Acrylic, flat clear coat for extra durabiliy and super low-gloss. Choose your colors assuming your AO environment, and stay away from black….it rarely occurs in nature and is pretty easily spotted. Since I wanted a forest break-up pattern, I chose khaki for my base, brown for layer 2, and dark green for foliage layer 3.
Step 3: Masking and Suspension….
I taped off and otherwise covered anything I didn’t want paint on (trigger assy, bolt holes, etc.)…as you can see, earplugs work great as barrel plugs, too.
Next I hung everything up w/bailing wire from the ceiling and prepared for my base coat….
Step 4: Base Coat and Stencil Prep……
I put 4 base coats (in khaki) on everything, stock, barrel, scope, magazine trap, trigger guard….Then I went to cutting stencils for layers 2 and 3…I use a disposable straight razor and a pane of glass as my backer-board.
I got my stencil designs online….just google your favorite leaf and pick out some line art…print and cut – you got a free stencil….
Step 5: Layers…..
I used a “stick” stencil and some brown to make “branches”….I just went random and relatively sparse with the layer, to avoid “bundling.”
After applying layer 2, I fogged the whole project lightly with the brown paint, to fuzz it up a bit and darken the overall scheme.
After 15 minutes or so, I went ahead and hit up coat #3 with a leafy stencil and some green….same advice as in the previous layer…..break up, not clutter…
Step 6: Don’t Forget the Details….
After waiting another hour for the project to cure again, I pilfered my kid’s colored pencils and chose a peach-colored one to add sketch accents to the leaves. They don’t need to be perfect….a sketchy outline actually adds good breakup to the overall pattern….
Step 7: Watch Where You Put That Thing Down!!!
After accenting where I wanted w/the pencil, I fogged the whole thing again lightly with green, waited another hour, and applied about 5 coats of clear, low gloss acrylic to the whole d*mn thing….and after another 2 hours under a baking lamps , I was ready to reassemble the pole….
Step 8: Reassembly and Conclusion…
Well, what can I say? When it’s dry, put it back together, wait about a week for the paint to fully cure, and hit the range to re-zero that scope….
The whole project took about $20, has stood up to Hoppe’s No. 9 powder solvent so far, and I couldn’t be happier with the resuts….
Hope you enjoyed my second “Instructible”.
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